BLOG

Back to School! Back to PRG!

Posted by on Aug 12, 2014 in Featured, Youth | 0 comments

Back to School! Back to PRG!

Did you miss us this Summer? We missed you! If you took the Summer off, it’s time to get back to climbing! Our afterschool youth programs are designed to give young climbers between the ages of 6 -17 a chance to learn and improve climbing skills. It’s a cool way to connect with other climbers while staying fit. Enrollment is on a monthly basis and will be at the start of each month. See more information and sign up today!

6 Steps to the Perfect Climbing Photograph

Posted by on Aug 11, 2014 in How To | 0 comments

As climbers, we find ourselves in some pretty outrageous positions and places. And who doesn’t want to come home with cool photos of these experiences. But just like climbing, your photography can only improve with lots and lots of practice. No one comes off the couch climbing 5.14, neither can we expect magazine quality photos right out of the gate. So, first order of business, just like climbing, is to get out there with your camera and try hard!

Along with going out and just shooting, here are a few simple things to consider that can help improve your climbing shots.

1)   Composition/Concept

Don’t just look at something cool and shoot it. Spend a moment to identify what you’re shooting. What are you trying to capture and convey with this photo? Some ideas to consider: the climber and/or a specific move looks dope, the climber in relation to a beautiful landscape or interesting textured rock, the scene at the base of the climb…

1

2)   Light

Light is the essence of photography. It takes practice to understand the importance of light in making an extraordinary photo. Start by just noticing how light affects lines, forms and the relationships between objects in a scene. Be sure to not confuse quality of light with quantity of light. Usually the most beautiful light is in the early morning and late evening, especially for a landscape type climbing photos.

2

However, often we find ourselves climbing in the middle of the day when the sun is harsh. In this case, shoot in the shade. The shade can enrich colors and remove the conflict of shadows in a scene. Be aware of any direct light when shooting in the shade. The contrast can be very confusing to the viewer.

3

3)   Get in Position

Think about the best place to be to obtain the image you composed in your head. On a rope — pick a section of the climb you want to shoot and position your self there—is it directly above the climber, to the side, or maybe it is a few routes away. It could also be from a distance—from another cliff, from the ground, through bushes—think drama.

4

4)   Basic Climbing Photo ‘Rules’

(And remember, all rules are meant to be broken…)

5

a) Position self to get all 4 limbs of the climber AND the face—capture the climber’s expression and especially the EYES!

6

b) Look for interesting, dynamic movements and have the climber repeat if necessary (and they are game).

7

c) Notice the geometry of rock, compelling lines and shapes, the line of the rope- all of these things can help lead your eye to the climber.

8

d) Try to get separation of climber and rock—many times the color of a climber can get lost in the color of the rock. Look at what is ‘behind’ the climber when you’re shooting. Positioning the climber’s body against the sky or a dramatically different colored rock is an example of this.

9

e) Keep things simple- the more you leave out the more compelling a photo usually becomes. The more clutter in a photo, the more confusion for the viewer.

5)   Tell a Story

Remember it’s not ALL about the climbing. Tell the visual story of your adventure. Capture the scene, the gear, the people, the smiles, the tears, the approach, the interaction of folks….

6) “Steal like an artist.” –Austin Kleon

Study your favorite climbing photographers and pick your favorite images. Analyze how they got that image and use that as a starting point. No one can make a perfect copy, so by trying to copy how someone got a great image, you will inevitably instill your own style and eventually, with lots and lots of practice, you will come out with something uniquely your own. Just remember to credit your inspiration.

Now you just need to get out there, get after it and try hard!!!

 

Blog written by Photographer Christine Bailey Speed. Christine frequently teams up with hubby Boone Speed on photography projects!Find out more about Christine and Boone’s work:

Christine Bailey Speed:
www.christinebaileyspeed.com
Instagram | Facebook

Boone Speed:
www.boonespeed.com
Instagram | Facebook

August Outdoor Clinics

Posted by on Jul 22, 2014 in Featured, Gym Events, Local Climbing | 0 comments

August Outdoor Clinics

Did you miss your chance to get outside with PRG in June and July? Well, don’t you fret, because our August Outdoor Clinics are here. Make sure to conquer all the skills you set out to this season with the help of our great instructors!

PRG_AugustGuiding_Poster2

How to build the perfect shantytown (aka long term camping set-up)

Posted by on Jul 8, 2014 in How To, Inspiration | 0 comments

So you’ve found yourself the ultimate project and are dedicated to whatever it takes to send it. Days, weeks, months pass by, and you’re still putting in attempt after attempt to show that rock who’s boss. Meanwhile, memories of your soft bed, hot shower, and full kitchen creep in and out of your mind while refueling on Nutella and stale bagels.

Now, if you’re one of those climbers with a pimped out RV or van, fine, you might still have those luxuries tucked away in the parking lot waiting for your return, but for those of us still rocking the old Chevy Cavalier our parents hooked us up with on our 16th birthdays, you might be ready to pack it in and find the closest motel when the going gets rough.

1384011_10103186304392273_2071006798_n

However, there is one way to ensure you maintain your sanity while choosing to kick it Huckleberry Finn style, and that is building the perfect shantytown (aka long term camping set-up) from day one. Here are the most important things to keep in mind when crafting your home away from home:

Location! Location! Location!

Finding the most beneficial location is the key to any successful shantytown. Once everything is set up, you are definitely going to be irked to discover that rain drains straight into your tent. Just like architects dedicate large efforts to their blueprints, you need to pre-plan and think through the setup of your shantytown. Every mistake will cost you in the long run.

Things to look for when scouting out your location:

  1. Trees: Trees are great for acting as anchor points for your structure. They also provide amazing shelter from the elements. However, try to avoid setting up under old ones that might drop branches and such on you, as well as ones with tons of birds roosting in them (for obvious reasons). You want your trees to be strong and sturdy. Endangered, fragile trees could greatly suffer from your structure, so respect the environment and choose trees that can handle it.
  2. Land: As mentioned above, you don’t want to end up sleeping in a swamp, so surveying the lay of the land is essential in choosing your location. Pick a spot that slopes at a slight angle and set up near the high point. Also, you might want to take into account where you are in relation to the sun. If you don’t appreciate waking up at sunrise, try to place your tent somewhere that remains shady until a decent hour of the day. On the flip side, if you’re in a cold location, be sure to keep your tent in the sun as long as you can.
  3. Sound: Are you the loud and rowdy group who stays up late laughing around the campfire until 2am? Are you the eager beaver group who heads to sleep early and is first to the crag at sunrise? Are you the family with two young children who get night terrors? All of these are awesome, but know which one you are and embrace it. Don’t set up next to a family if you plan to party all night. Don’t set up next to a site that has empty beer bottles everywhere if you want to go to sleep at sunset.
  4. Proximity: Take into account your surroundings and needs. Are there bathrooms available at your location? If so, consider how important it is to you to be close to them. How far are you from the crag? Do you want to be in isolation or closer to a town? Sometimes you don’t have very many options, but if you do, think about what will make your long term stay the most enjoyable.

Construction Zone. Go Slow!

So, you’ve found the perfect location after much back and forth with your fellow shantytown inhabitants. Now it’s time to begin crafting your framework and structure.

537054_10201439431722266_790870085_n

Things to remember when building your structure:

  1. Equipment: Maybe you are an experienced architect and brought all the bells and whistles for erecting a shantytown mansion, but most of us usually show up with some rope and a couple cheap tarps. Don’t get overzealous when constructing your new home. Even if you’re drooling over your neighbor’s masterpiece, remember that you can only go as big and bold as your equipment allows. If you’re not in the middle of nowhere, a trip to Wally World can often assist in your endeavors.
  2. Rope Framework: Stringing up your ropes is the first step to success. You want to decide on your anchor points and ensure the rope is tied tightly and securely. Before you even hang a single tarp, you must get your rope framework properly tensioned. The more tension the better. Your structure must withstand wind and rain, and water is heavier than you think. Also, don’t forget that you have to walk under this structure, so unless you are abnormally short or enjoy adding to the climber hunchback you already have, make sure you tie off your ropes high enough to make for a comfortable setting. (A bit of acrobatic or tree-climbing skill may be required.)
  3. Vehicles: If you have multiple cars in the group and can sacrifice one for the shantytown, awesome. Vehicles are great to use as an extra wall to your home. They help protect against the wind (if properly placed) and provide a lockable, waterproof space for your valuables. Cars also give you the added benefit of a built-in radio and power source. Just don’t forget to start the car frequently, so you don’t kill the battery. And, remember to point the exhaust away from your site or others.
  4. Tarpology: There is definitely a science to hanging your tarps, and if you’ve never studied tarpology, be sure to get some assistance from someone who has. Even a beginner tarpist knows the golden rule: you need to have a high point and a low point. Whether you’re going for an A-frame, a single slope, or something more advanced, the key to setting up your tarps is to think like Mother Nature. Really tap into the minds of the wind and rain. If you don’t want to wake up every hour during a torrential downpour to empty out the heavy pool of water forming over your kitchen, be sure to follow the golden rule. Securely fasten your tarp to your rope framework using twine or something sturdy. Zip ties can be especially handy if you have them. The more points you can fasten to the main ropes, the better.
  5. Bonus Tip: If one or more of your tarp corner eyelets have been ripped out by past battles with Mother Nature, don’t fret. Find a smooth, golf ball or baseball sized rock and cover it with the corner of the tarp. You can then wrap the twine around the bottom of the rock and tie that to the rope.

Home Sweet Home

The time has finally come to unpack and settle in. This involves setting up four key areas of your shantytown: the kitchen, living room, fireplace, and bedrooms.

Things to consider when organizing your home:

  1. Kitchen: If you don’t have your car or food tent incorporated, you will need a place to store all your food and cooking gear. Bringing a foldable table is always beneficial, but you can usually snag a picnic table from somewhere as well. A table of some sort will make your life a LOT easier and enjoyable when living in a shantytown. You then have a permanent place to keep your camp stove, cut up your vegetables, and gather for a good ol’fashioned family meal. Be sure to have a trash and recycling bin nearby and empty them regularly. If you are camping in a bear/wildlife area, you will need to be careful with your food and scraps.
  2. Living Room: Everyone wants a comfortable place to chill out at the end of a hard day of climbing or to spend a quiet rest day. Foldable camping chairs and hammocks are an absolute necessity when it comes to shantytown living. Keep the slackline nearby as well. Adding special touches to this area can make it feel homier and easily identifiable for when you invite guests over. Pick up a welcome mat or flag. Maybe create some artwork to hang on a tree. If you can, include a lantern in your set up to avoid getting smashed in the eyes with bright headlamps every five seconds.
  3. Fireplace: If you are lucky enough to be in an area that allows fires, make sure to incorporate your fire pit placement into your whole design. You want the fire to be outside of the tarp, so you don’t fill up your living space with smoke or accidentally set the roof on fire. If you are relying on your fire for warmth, place the bedrooms nearby. If you are relying on your fire for cooking, place the kitchen nearby. If it’s just there to get drunk and tell ghost stories around, place the bedrooms faraway.
  4. Bedrooms (aka tents): When choosing where to set up your tent, be sure to take into account the other people in your group. Is there a young buck looking for lots of love? Is there an overly affectionate couple? You know what I’m getting at here… Think about your own needs when placing your tent. Keep away from the kitchen if there are animals in the area. If not, set up close to kitchen and wake up to the smell of bacon each morning (if you’re lucky).

With these helpful suggestions, you are bound to stay comfy and cozy while spending months at your favorite crag sending your ultimate project. If followed correctly, you will probably even make lots of new friends in the process. Everyone loves a friend with an epic shantytown. Happy building!

 

Blog by guest writer Sara Schneider. See more of her writing here.

Ready to go from Gym to Crag?

Posted by on Jun 9, 2014 in Featured | 0 comments

Ready to go from Gym to Crag?

With Gym to Crag, climbers will head to a local crag from three hours and climb with a PRG, AMGA SPI guide. It’s a great way for beginning climbers to get some outdoor climbing experience. Gym to Crag is just getting started for 2014! Find out more now.

Are YOU Ready for a Walkabout?

Posted by on Jun 3, 2014 in Destinations, Inspiration | 1 comment

Are YOU Ready for a Walkabout?

For those of you who sit (or stand) at work every day while dreaming of the weekend, this blog post is for you. For those of you who spend more time pushing yourself in the climbing gym than cleaning a climb, continue reading. For those of you who dream of climbing for days straight, never worrying about when you’ll have to clock back into work, you’re going to want to read this. And for our readers who may never become a pro climber but want to live like one, this article could possibly get you closer to that reality. It’s hard work, it takes a lot of planning, and it’s not easy. But when it does happen and you step on that plane or pack up your car, it’s all worth it.

Sometime in the summer of 2012, my friend Chris and I shot around the idea of heading to Mallorca, Spain to do some deep water soloing (DWS). We figured we were just as good (and strong) as Chris Sharma, and falling 60 feet into the ocean was a helluva lot more fun than taking a 10-foot whipper in the gym.

570dc1f8caff11e29f5522000a9f14ae_7

Like most grand plan ideas, it just started as small talk, and honestly, that’s all I ever thought it would amount to. More and more, Chris would bring it up, often at the gym where we were really starting to push ourselves into the high 11s and low 12s. Climbing was something we loved dearly, enough to commute by car 30+ minutes in each direction to our local gym. So when Chris, who by all means is a “doer,” said that it was time to get serious about planning this trip, I knew he really meant it.

As for me, I had an amazing job, at an amazing company, who paid me well and allowed me to live a very comfortable life. So when the idea grew from a two-week long trip to the thought of a multiple-month long expedition, I got a bit hesitant. Instead of the conversation now being based around the price of plane tickets, it formed into the tone of, “What am I doing with my life?” Could I really just take three months off work? Would my company, who was highly dependent on me, even allow that type of leave? It turned out, the answer was no.

You see, as humans, we love comfort. At the root of it all, comfort is the un-ignorable feeling that we love the most – yet only some will admit it. As for me, your guide, I was living in the pinnacle of comfort. At age 27, I had graduated college with a degree, was promoted within the company that I had already been working for to a director position, was not married, had no children, no outstanding debt, with the exception of student loans, and living with roommates paying just under $400/month. If that doesn’t sound like living under the bridge of comfort, I’m not sure what does.

So when taking a couple of weeks off work formulated further into saving as much as you can, quitting your job, and heading to Europe for 3+ months, I got a little anxious. This is when I sat back and realized that maybe this shield of comfort wasn’t as good as I thought. It was too good. It was good enough that I could sit back one day and realize that I had worked the same job in the same city through my twenties and into my thirties without taking any risks and scaring myself. After that realization, this European trip became more and more of a reality.

The following are some steps to make a life changing trip happen. When I explained what I wanted to do to my father, a man who prizes security, he took it well and replied to me with a comforting, “…sounds like you’re ready to take a walkabout.”

Are you? Well, lucky you, I put together the most important six steps to making your climbing adventure a reality, just like mine…

1af4e230ce1c11e291e622000a1f9d57_7

6 STEPS TO CLIMBING FREEDOM:

1. Surround yourself with doers.

There are people who talk about it and then there are people who do it. Find the latter. You’ll never make anything happen if you don’t. If you’re unable to make the drive happen yourself, be around those who can and will push you to do the same.

2. Save every single penny you can.

This is an obvious step and could equally be tied for the #1 position. Monetary freedom is unfortunately what it really comes down to. Whether or not you’re going to travel like a dirt bag or sleep in hotels every night, you’re still going to need a significant amount of change to get there and then support yourself.

On top of my salaried position at work, I took on as much additional freelance work as I possibly could. Because of this, my normal climbing training after work was cut down drastically, but I still accepted every job that came in and searched for more work on top of that.

Note: If you’re lucky enough to have a job you can do on the road, keep it. Additional income on the road will justify drinking that cold beer after a hard day on the crag.

3. Buy your tickets.

Do it. Commit. I meet so many people that say they’re going here or going there, but until those plane tickets are in your hand, you’re not going anywhere. Talk is cheap.

Once those tickets are bought, your life changing leave of absence becomes a reality. Your spending becomes more delicate and your plan of action until the day you leave becomes more thought out.

4. Once those tickets are confirmed, tell your job you’re leaving.

Give them as much of a professional heads up as you can. Never burn bridges and always leave on a good note.

5. Ask for sponsorship.

Yes, ask for sponsorship. It’s as easy as that. As a group of three mediocre climbers in their late twenties, what would we have to offer big name climbing companies? Absolutely nothing – so sell them that. With the help of some graphic design skills, we were able to position ourselves as three average climbers who would appeal directly to all of the other average climbers out there. Peers appealing to peers.

We sent nearly 100 climbing, outdoor, and food companies a sponsorship packet and hoped for the best. This simple angle and the right verbiage allowed us to land enough pro deals and free essentials that clothing, food, ropes and all other climbing gear costs didn’t come out of our pockets. We got more thumbs down than thumbs up, but what we did get saved us thousands of dollars.

In return, the awesome companies that did sponsor us got daily Twitter shoutouts, Instagram images, and Facebook photos for their use – which to them is a big deal in today’s world.

85dc76bac27511e2a5e422000aaa08f8_7267329_10101190963566516_1888045783_n

6. Live like a dirt bag.

There’s no simpler way to put it. If you’re on a climbing trip for three or more months and don’t know what your future looks like when you finally return to reality – the dirt bag lifestyle is the only way to go. Make a financial spending limit that you won’t surpass, and then do every single thing you can to stay far below that.

What do I mean by living like a dirt bag? For starters, I mean traveling smart. The more you plan ahead (route, food, expenses, etc.) the less money you will waste doing it on the go. Cook everything and shop at grocery stores or farmer’s markets. Sleep in caves, on the beach, and under bushes rather than hostels. Hitchhike or take the bus. If you absolutely need to rent a car, rent the cheapest thing you can. Meet other climbers and talk to them about sharing camp spots or making a joint trip to the grocery store. Don’t go sightseeing. You’re here to climb which in reality is going to give you a better view than any tourist-filled overlook. Tell yourself every day that you’re spending too much. Train you mind to fill up on water and even try fasting once a week. It’s easier than it sounds and will save you big money in the long run. Focus your energy on climbing, not which cafe has the best croissant.

That about wraps it up. Going on extended trips is hard, but it can become a reality. Start with step number one and go from there.

Blog post written by PRG climber and graphic design mastermind Miles Quillen. Have a topic you’d love to write about on our blog? Email Anna!

June Membership Deals!

Posted by on Jun 2, 2014 in Gym Events, Uncategorized | 0 comments

June Membership Deals!

Buying a Portland Rock Gym membership in June has its benefits!

All Annual Contracts AND Prepaid Annual purchases made in June will receive a 30% OFF coupon to the Columbia and Mountain Hardwear store.

Coupon expires 6/30/2014. Valid at Columbia store downtown, Mountain Hardwear store downtown, and the Columbia store in the PDX airport.

Summer Savings!

Posted by on Jun 2, 2014 in Featured | 0 comments

Summer Savings!
Purchase a Two Month Summer Pass for only $109!
If you can’t get outside as much as you’d like this Summer, make sure to stay in shape. With your Summer PRG two month membership, you’ll ensure that when you do hit real rock, you’ll be able to give it your all.