The 10th Annual PDX Ice Comp will take place on Saturday, November 21 from 10am-4pm.
For the past 10 years PRG has hosted an annual dry tooling competition for all climbers to try their hand at “ice climbing.” This is a no experience necessary event and open to all variety of climbers. Gear will be provided by Grivel but you’re more than welcome to bring your own if you have it.
Competitors can pre-register here for $30 / $35 day of registration
Check out the full lineup of events happening this year as part of the Portland Alpine Fest!
You’ve seen it on the schedule, maybe even around town, but what is Restorative Yoga and why should you do it? Generally, when a lot of us think of yoga, we think about sweaty bodies, pretzel shapes, burning muscles and a decent work out. While that isn’t a bad thing, there are other types of yoga that are equally, if not more, important to the body.
Restorative yoga is a style of yoga that promotes relaxation through long holds of gentle postures. Props such as bolsters, blocks and straps are used to support the body in order to facilitate a calming of the nervous system (reduces stress, anxiety, depression, and more) and allows the often tight muscles and connective tissues a chance to soften and lengthen.
- Accessibility: You do not have to be flexible to do yoga, period. Because this kind of yoga relies on a heavy use of props, and allows you time to get into and come out of postures, you will most likely find a comfortable position
- Great For Pain: Especially those with chronic pain. Restorative yoga de-escalates the nervous system and retrains your body’s patterns of holding tension. These postures, combined with breath, change the way your brain reacts to pain. Be sure to talk to your instructor for any extra assistance you might need
- Better Sleep: Even the smarties at Harvard know that yoga can have a significant improvement in cases of insomnia. You can check out an abstract of the study here.
- Decreased Stress Levels: We touched on this briefly in the beginning of this post but here is a little more detail. Taking the time to pause intentionally and try to relax allows your sympathetic nervous system (fight or flight) to step into the background while your parasympathetic nervous system (rest and digest) gets to kick in and engage.
We could tell you dozens of reasons why Restorative Yoga is good for you but you really should try it out for yourself. Right now you can check out Restorative Yoga on the following days and times:
Sunday //4:00pm with Kelly Peyton
Monday // 7:30pm with Christina Provencio
Check the schedule for our most up to date class times and instructors.
Almost every climber I know has experienced an injury of some kind. Yes, there are the few folks I know that have been climbing for years and remain injury free, but for the most part this little lot of people has had some kind of issue at some point in their climbing lives.
As a yoga teacher who enjoys a bit of climbing and spends her days managing a yoga studio inside a rock climbing gym I find myself in regular conversations with climbers who are curious about how to address their ailments and prevent further injuries.
One of the issues I hear about most is shoulder pain – What is it? How do I make it go away? How do I not have it again? Not always easy questions to answer – if you are experiencing pain it is probably worth having it checked out by your doc – but I wanted to at least begin sharing with you where you might begin.
It will help to begin with a brief anatomy lesson. I know, some of you will want to scroll right past this and get to the part where I talk about prevention, but please stay with me. Gaining a basic understanding of what your rotator cuff actually is and how it works will help you pinpoint where your pain is and how you might better address it through self-care.
The rotator cuff muscles are 4 distinct muscles that stabilize the shoulder joint. These muscles attach to the arm bone (humerus) and shoulder blade (scapula) in specific ways that, when we develop an understanding of, gives us insight into how these muscles perform.
This little muscle begins on the scapula, you can see its origin on the posterior view of the should in the image above, and wraps under the acromion to insert on the top part of the humerus. The supraspinatus allows the humerus to rotate laterally and initiates the abduction of the arm.
This muscle originates on the backside (posterior) of the shoulder blade and inserts on the posterior section of the humerus. The infraspinatus laterally rotates the humerus.
Originating on the anterior section of the scapula (this is the part of the scapula facing the inside of your body) and inserting on the upper arm bone, this muscle medially rotates the humerus.
Teres Minor Muscle
The teres minor begins underneath the infraspinatus on the scapula and inserts right next to, and slightly under the infraspinatus on the humerus.
So if we think about all of these origin and insertion points there is one common denominator – the humerus. When we then look at all the ways that we use our arms, up and down and side to side, and habitual movement patterns – the way we reach, pull, grab, push etc…we can then begin to see the potential origin of dysfunction.
In my experience in working with climbers the most common thing I see is overuse and over development of muscles around the rotator (traps, levators, rhomboids, delts) and weakness and/or tightness in the muscles of the rotator cuff. When we focus on strengthening the muscles of the rotator cuff and increasing flexibility in these areas we are not only helping to potentially alleviate pain but are also addressing some of the root causes of that pain and dysfunction.
So if we are looking at building and maintaining strength in the rotator cuff muscles to prevent injury where do we begin? Practicing yoga, an activity in which you bear weight on your arms, is generally a great place to start. Strengthening these muscles is a delicate activity that doesn’t take a lot of sweating and grunting. Think of that techy, balancey route you have to tip toe through.
Yoga, practiced regularly, mindfully and using a variety of standing poses, chest openers, and gentle weight bearing postures can help you strengthen the rotator cuff and prevent future injury.
Downward Facing Dog At The Wall
Please note, if you are currently experiencing pain, it is always best to seek a medical opinion for proper diagnosis. If you have an acutely injured rotator cuff, or one that hasn’t fully recovered from an injury or surgery, it’s best to leave the exercise prescription to a health care professional.
The knowledgeable, and often hilarious, yoga instructors at PRG answer your burning questions about the whys and whats of yoga.
This month’s question was asked by a PRG member touring the new expansion area. When we arrived at the studio space his face made that same expression one that my nephew makes whenever his mother tried to feed him vegetables and said, “I am not made for yoga,” to which I responded…who is? This led us to the following discussion and epiphany having moment.
Q: I am not flexible. Can I practice yoga?
A: Yes yes yes!! You, my friend, are the perfect candidate for yoga. It is unfortunate that so much of the marketing and advertising for yoga shows svelte and limber people making seemingly impossible shapes seem like the norm. Yoga will help you find flexibility, build strength and coordination, relax, and much much more. If you’re curious about what class would be a good fit for you please email our studio manager at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Welcome to the PRG instructor highlight series! Each month we’ll be introducing you to one of our awesome instructors here at PRG in hopes that you find a little inspiration and motivation to get to class. Trust us…your body will thank you.
To kick things off this month let us formally introduce you to Joey Beso. Joey’s energy, positivity and super stellar playlists make her classes FUN. We asked Joey who she would encourage to come to her classes and here is what she said:
“Who would I encourage to come to my class? Anyone looking for an escape from their day. All levels, all ages. I would say that my main focus is to hold space for healing to occur…. I feel like the more NEW confidence my students can find on their mats, the likelihood of them feeling confident and happier off their mats is higher. My classes tend to be pretty energetic and sometimes a little bravery is required but I always offer modifications. Climbers, runners, hardcore yogis, people who just want to sweat out their hangover….I’ll take them all.”
Come experience Joey’s classes for yourself
Saturday 9:15am // Vinyasa
Sunday 10:00am // Yoga for Climbers
Wednesday 7:30pm // Yin + Yang
Join Us To Celebrate!
Portland Rock Gym presents The Expansion, the official opening party of the PRG expansion! Join us on Saturday, September 26th from 12-9pm to see the brand new walls waiting for your first ascents!
FREE day passes, Top ‘Til You Drop climbing contest, FREE intro class sign ups, raffle prizes, and more! Plus smoothies from Prasad Cafe, local brews, and other tasty eats.
Special thanks to all the sponsors that helped to make this event possible: Next Adventure (lead sponsor), Evolution Healthcare and Fitness, Merrell, Mountain Shop, Metolius, Eldorado Climbing Walls, NW Alpine, Mazamas, Prasad East, Mountain Hardwear, and Base Camp Brewing Co.
We’re so excited to show you what’s waiting next door…
The Top ‘Til You Drop Comp is an endurance based competition and a fun way to climb the new walls for the first time! Climb as many problems as you can in 4 hours, grades range from V0 – v10. Cost is $10/competitor and prizes will be awarded for the top 3 women and men!
Want to participate in the Top Til You Drop Bouldering Comp? You can register online below or call the gym.
Expanded yoga & fitness class schedule will begin on Sunday, January 10, 2016!
SEE NEW CLASS SCHEDULE NOW!
Our philosophy is to provide an environment where the integration, promotion, and advancement of healthy and active lifestyles is met through community yoga and fitness classes, workshops, events and supportive services.
Portland Rock Gym instructors maintain the highest level of personal practice, study, and integrity in and out of the studio. They are committed to excellence and are attentive to the developmental needs of the Portland Rock Gym community.
Our studio team has developed three main branches of support for successful PRG yoga and fitness programming; group classes, workshops, and community events.
It is our hope that we can empower each student to find their own limits and the style of practice that will fit their individual needs and lifestyle. Our classes are specifically designed to playfully uplift and encourage all who enter our studio, and we strive for our personal best each practice.
“Yoga is art of getting good at being yourself.”
Sign up now and enjoy a $0 initiation fee for all new EFT (Monthly withdrawal) Memberships until October 1, 2015!
Click Here To See Current Rates
Starting October 1, 2015, Membership rates will increase to the following:
“I am beyond excited about the way things are shaping up with the studio. Our cork floors have been laid, Julie Rall is working on some beautiful artwork to compliment the space and our expanded schedule is looking great.”
– Krystyn Strother, PRG Studio Manager
We are looking forward to bringing you a variety of classes with incredible teachers from around the Portland Metro area.
It is our mission to stay in touch with you, our community, in order to provide dynamic programming to complement your health, fitness, and wellness goals. Based on your feedback, we will be adding some specially designed classes to provide a solid foundation to get you started with yoga or advance your current yoga practice.
We will also be including classes that will focus on core concepts of movement, stretching and strengthening for injury prevention as it pertains to climbing, traditional yoga, and more. Stay tuned for class additions – you’ll be seeing more fitness and cross training coming soon!
Remember to tell your friends! Yoga and fitness classes are included in your annual membership.
Please complete our brief survey to assist PRG in creating a Studio space that works well for everyone.
Feel free to email Krystyn with any comments, questions or feedback: email@example.com
Ah yes, the joys of real stone. From the dark basalt columns of the Columbia River Gorge, to the blazing granite peaks of the high Sierra, each type of rock is different. In turn each rock type offers it’s own unique experience. The feel of real stone on your fingertips. The way textured rock sticks to your shoes oh so nicely. The look of the evening sunlight painting the wall during the day’s final hours. The look, feel, and experience of real stone is something that cannot be mimicked. It must be experienced firsthand.
It can be difficult to describe, but there is something very special in the wind. While it is not always pleasant, and can even be downright wicked; there is something in the wind that calls for more and seems to offer congratulations at a job well done. A blustery wind fills the air with electricity, beckoning you forward while simultaneously testing your resolve to press on. A calm breeze lets you relax, feel the tranquility of your surroundings and meditate simply on the moment at hand. The wind is a beautiful thing, whether inviting or menacing, it is certainly an integral part of our relationship with the natural world.
In rock climbing, a route or boulder problem which the climber is unable to complete in a relatively small number of attempts or a short period of time can often be considered a “project” for that climber. While most climbers may have projects in the gym from time to time, there is simply nothing like the emotional journey of having a true outdoor project. Projecting is often characterized by a degree of obsession on the part of the climber. Consumed by thoughts of the route. The holds, the beta, the conditions, the when can I try it next?
Projecting an outdoor route can be a long process requiring a great deal of commitment and positive thinking. For instance, my brother recently finished his long term project of three years, Opposing Gravity 5.13b/c in Birdsboro, Pennsylvania. Now, imagine being so inspired by a route that you are willing to return to it year after year and countless failed attempts, until that one fateful day when everything comes together just right in a singular perfect moment of body and mind. That my friend, is what climbing outside will do for you.
In climbing, doubt is part of the game. This is particularly true of outdoor climbing, where the consequences of a misstep can be exacerbated by the uncontrolable nature of one’s surroundings. The more committing the climb, the more likely it is that doubt will creep into your mind, causing you to question the likelihood of safely completing the objective.
Now, I know this is not sounding too great so far. However, the beauty in doubt is not the doubt itself, but rather the opportunity to push through it. To quiet your fears and to take control of your destiny, if only for a brief moment. Doubt allows us to see who we really are and how strong we can be. Some of your greatest climbs may be shadowed in doubt all the way up to the very end. Be brave. It will be worth it.
While the mountains are not always the best place to meet new people, they are a wonderful place to create and build upon lifelong friendships with trusted partners. Few things in life will get you closer to someone than to trust your life with their judgement and ability. To be able to joke with someone and create optimism when all the cards seemed stacked against you. To work together through success and failure. Good partners can be hard to find, but when you have one, it is something very special.